We got to the Rifugio last night that we assumed was free but actually cost money to camp. We were some of the last people to pitch our tents and our location near the front door to the hut wasn’t optimal. We talked until late in the night, then some rain came in the night and I had to make adjustments to the tent since we almost always sleep with the doors open. I had to do some restating by headlamp. There was also a helicopter flying overhead when I was trying to go to sleep. I also woke up at 4:30 and couldn’t sleep so I started working on the photos for this blog. Then when I tried to go back to sleep, some children woke up with maximum energy and started running around our tent. I started the day wanting a nap. Or some tea since it was finally cool enough to support a hot beverage.
We walked into the town of Gavernie where the Tour de France had been just a week prior. We started by doing our food resupply for 3 days at what turned out to be a shitty grocery store. The most interesting thing was Zoë bought 6, fresh baked pan au chocolates for breakfasts. It looked like a nice change from the pre packaged ones we normally get, albeit a more expensive one. She fancy.
Then I sought out WiFi which is harder to come by than I expected. Zoë found us a nice cafe, we ordered drinks, and I went to work trying to upload the 9 days or so worth of blog posts/photos. Zina and her partner Yela, joined myself, Zoë, and I. Clemens also came. We used the cafe as a home base while we did various errands. At one point, I was watching the packs and an employee asked me to please move some of the packs because I was taking up too much room. There was hardly anyone else in this outside space. I moved one pack. At another point, I went into a gear shop and bought a replacement sleeping pad, since mine was in imminent danger of failing. Thankfully I was able to find the exact same model. Unfortunately, the EU price was higher. We had lunch at the restaurant and went our separate ways.
On our way out of the restaurant we talked with an Australian guy and a German girl who are hiking the HRP in 4 weeks (fast!) and who both hiked the PCT 2 years ago, but they met for the first time on the HRP. The German asked me how I liked my pack. I’m not a gear evangelist. I think gear is a means to an end and the reality is, all gear has problems. Also, this pack is the only one I’ve really tried. It works ok for me, but in order to try out a new pack, you basically have to buy a new one and just try it, and hope it works out. They’re so person specific, almost like shoes, that I don’t know how I could recommend something like that to someone. It may fit me and not fit you, which would be a deal breaker. When I hiked the PCT and my 6 year old pack wore out after a month of continuous use, I could either buy the same one, or try something new and risk wasting money. I went with the safer route of just buying the same pack, but I don’t know enough about other packs to recommend this one. For all I know, it’s the worst option out there, but it happens to be just good enough such that I don’t hate it, so I stick with it. Maybe buy a Gossamer Gear Mariposa, or maybe buy literally any other pack. How’s that for gear advice?
Zoë and I went with Simon to a nearby campground to try and do laundry. We asked if we could pay to do laundry and they said no, it is only for guests. Then I asked how much is it for a tent and they said 10€ for one night. Then we said thank you, and walked away. We sent Simon back to book a tent spot for one night. The woman wanted Simon to walk up a large hill in the sun to pitch his tent before paying. Simon said he would pitch if after, he just wanted to pay first and then start his laundry. The lady said no, you can’t just do laundry here, without staying, even if he paid the 10€. The French make no sense sometimes.
We hung out by the river for a couple hours to wait out the heat of the day. Around 4, Zoë and I left to hike up to a camping spot 2 hours out of town. When we got there, all the other folks we had spent the day with were there. Even Simon ended up joining us after saying he didn’t think he’d make it up that far today.
We met an English guy named Luke who is doing a phd in Glasgow and also hiked the PCT last year. We talked with him about his experience versus ours as he went north and we went south.
We had a spectacular sunset tonight, overlooking Gavernie with the clouds making for spectacular lighting. We were all taking photos every 10 minutes for an hour, it felt like. Eventually Zoë and I excused ourselves and went to bed. I for one need more rest before tomorrow.